riding boots for sports use are subject to very strong stress. First, mechanical stress, eg the go and knead the ride, which rub against the saddle and horse, on the other they are simultaneously exposed to the sweat of the horse and rider.
same time, the riding boots are very comfortable to wear (for example, be breathable and Elsat), be water repellent and keep long course.
What do I need to choose the care and attention to my riding boots to give you a long life with high wearing comfort?
Proper riding boots must fit
The most important of all: The Riding boots must fit well from the start! If the boots too far, your foot does not stop and the boot "traipsing" quickly. If the boots too tight, it is uncomfortable and unsightly bulges formed rapidly at the points where the boots suppressed. Let persuade themselves as nothing, and now you do not boot, it will not fit her well from the beginning, so at no point strongly suppressed.
However, the boots may initially be a little too high (tweak in the knee) because of the boots will be reduced rapidly. Small wedges in the heel can do this at the beginning equalize.
Figure 1: lowering of the boot in about 3 months
style
In style is the procedure, with the sole and shaft of the boot are connected. In the simplest case, this is a bond (APO) which, sewn in the better case (welted best).
is generally say that stitched boots are more expensive because the process is more complex than the bond. Stitched boots usually last longer than your stuck and can form better To keep the seam there is even a little elastic.
Typically, one of riding boots under 300 € only glued soles expect.
size
The most important criterion for the stability of a boot is the size. I compare my wife's boots (size 38) with my (size 46) so I notice that neither the leather or the seam with the size become thicker (as should go ...). Even when brushing, I note that a small boot just has an intrinsically more stable than a large one. In addition, the larger boots also usually larger loads.
straight rider to "Big foot" live should therefore also prefer the more expensive "welted" boots.
leather
The most common types of leather for the shaft of the riding boots are leather and calf leather. For the lining usually pig or calf leather is used.
leather is rather stiff and firm, but also very robust and durable. Calf leather is softer and more comfortable, but also slightly more sensitive (and expensive).
suede boots for riding is not used more. It is difficult to maintain and, above all, waterproof.
zip
are increasingly riding boot with zip offered. This runs either front or rear and can range down to different extents.
zippers make much smaller incisions possible, but this is a matter of taste. In addition, of course, the on and off of the boot much easier.
zippers also have disadvantages. First, the zipper is always the first part that breaks. He is exposed to dust and dirt and mechanical stress, and it is enough for a single link fails. The repair is costly.
addition can be riding boot with zip after the fact change very difficult.
sole
Better Riding boots are available in principle with leather sole. There is the possibility of having to stick a rubber sole.
The rubber sole of course improve the water resistance and also ensures better grip. However, it also prevents the respiration and moisture loss from the sole.
The replacement of a rubber sole is easy and cheap, a leather sole to be sewn by a good cobbler. How many rides can
riding boots daily
Who should have at least 2 pairs of riding boots and also use it alternately, so that the boots, then dry it completely. This is for the durability of the boot is essential! The
daily care after each use
you have the riding boots not brush after every use completely. As long as the leather is protected by a layer of wax (shoe polish), it is not crucial for the life that you clean the boots completely after each use. But anyone who wants to show permanently shiny boots, which is recommended to clean the boots with a good damp sponge. It always use cold water so that the wax does not become detached. Then polish up briefly with the brush.But the most important: Dry The boots after each use with a shoe and clamping shank completely.
Hard Wax
goal of nursing with shoe polish, it is always a layer of hard wax on the leather of the boot to have. This layer protects and preserves the leather by rejecting dirt and moisture. The hard wax is still breathable, and the boot is dry.
for the demands on such a hard wax should care about once every 3-6. Use are carried out. With a little experience, you can quickly assess whether there is sufficient wax layer present on the boots, or maintenance is necessary.
- Cleaning: Before applying to the start of shoe polish should clean the boots with a rag / sponge and cold water carefully and let dry for a while.
- application of shoe polish: The shoe polish applied with a brush and rags. Personally, I use a old socks and a toothbrush for the transition to the sole. The shoe polish should only be applied to wafer-thin.
- be drying: leave (at least 30 minutes, or just over night) for a while now the shoe polish to dry.
- polishing with the brush: with a fine (eg, goat hair) brush, polish the boots now have a high gloss.
The right shoe polish
to proper care is still the cream of the hard wax Tin is the best. Only this is a sustainable security layer protects the boot really. Stay away from water-based shoe polishes! First, you use a lot more from such a cream (and is thus much more expensive), and secondly has the protection is not usually long and thirdly, the layer can not polish so beautiful.hard wax creams, there are (roughly speaking) in two grades: Use cheap gasoline as a solvent, turpentine oil more expensive. You can easily detect the smell. Terpentinölbasierte creams are better plotted and the result shines a little better. The crucial difference is in my opinion not.
<- Alles was man zur Hartwachspflege braucht: Bürste zum polieren, Socken und Zahnbürste zum auftragen. Und natürlich noch eine Schuhcreme aus der Blechdose.
